Nataša Kovačić, Ph.D., a chemist and an innovator in the world of natural cosmetics. She is an owner of a company where she combines her passion for chemistry and nature in the form of production of unique cosmetic products. Her journey from analytical chemistry to the natural product development shows her desire to combine scientific strictness with environmental sustainability.

Nataša: My career as a chemist led me to different areas of chemistry, from my specialisation in analytical chemistry to analysing ingredients in creams, toners, soaps… And soon, from analysing ingredients in cosmetic products, I came to the desire to reverse my knowledge, to turn ingredients into a product, to choose which ingredients to use and to combine them into a unique and, above all, effective natural product formula.

Nataša: The biggest problem with modern cosmetics today is the flood of products. And the fact that every manufacturer promises miracles. On the other hand, we have consumers who have a problem, but whose ignorance and astonishing marketing ploys make it extremely difficult for them to make the right and sensible choice. It is therefore very important to be able to choose and identify quality cosmetic products.

Nataša: It is difficult to recognise real, truly natural products without knowing the laws of cosmetics. Some manufacturers choose to certify a product for this very purpose (the certification on the product gives the product added value), some rely on the claims on the product, experts rely on the INCI ingredients. For others, the only criterion is the feeling on my skin: whether I like the product or not. For some, this criterion is enough.

Nataša: The main advantages of natural cosmetics, in my opinion, are the ingredients, which must be as chemically minimised as possible, taken from nature in as original a way as possible and put on our skin as such. The disadvantages? When ingredients are not in the right concentrations or proportions with other ingredients, natural cosmetics can be irritating, very bad for our skin. And the user needs to know their skin very well to make the right choice. By making the wrong choice, they can aggravate their skin problems.

Nataša: I incorporate my professional knowledge into my decisions every day, when buying groceries, cosmetics, cleaning products, clothes, furniture, when building a house, when landscaping… I’m quite professionally “deformed”, so to speak.

Nataša: Parabens, to clarify, are a group of compounds chemically known as hydroxybenzoic acid esters. They affect the pH of micro-organisms and thus destroy them. They are extremely effective in protecting cosmetic products against micro-organisms. They are not allowed in natural cosmetics, as there are doubts about their hormonal action in our bodies. Parabens can be partially absorbed through the skin. Funnily enough, quite a few parabens occur naturally in nature (e.g. in blueberries, olives, etc. ). However, I think that the concerns about their use in cosmetics are completely misplaced, because we use cosmetic products several times a day, for days, months and years. If we are inferring the accumulation and/or metabolism of a particular compound entering our body, then caution is necessary and justified when using that compound in a product.

Nataša: As I said before, parabens can be potentially dangerous for our hormonal function, mainly because they pass through the skin into our body, potentially accumulating and entering our metabolic processes. I am also thinking about the potential danger of newly formed metabolic products, about which we know nothing; we do not even know what new compounds are being formed, what the concentrations are, whether they accumulate, whether they are incorporated further, whether they are possibly toxic? So, for me, it is too many unknowns, too much risk. I agree with the decision that parabens do not belong in natural cosmetics. However, I am also of the opinion that compounds with such a CV do not belong in products for human and animal use.

Nataša: Current guidelines on the use of preservatives in natural cosmetics dictate the use of antimicrobial compounds that are not on the list of officially authorised preservatives, but which nevertheless have an antimicrobial effect. Example: a compound is used that has another role in the formula (e.g. as a fragrance) but also has an antimicrobial effect.

Nataša: In principle, oil-based products do not need a preservative. However, in addition to the formulation, it is also necessary to consider how the product is used, whether it may come into contact with water during its lifetime, in which case preservative should be added for safety reasons. Example: oil-based shower gel.

Nataša: Both alcohols (e.g. benzyl alcohol) and certain organic acids and their salts (e.g. sodium benzoate, benzyl benzoate) act as preservatives. They are found in natural sources and are therefore positioned as safe natural preservatives. What needs to be kept in mind, however, are the concentrations used. In natural cosmetics, it is important to stick to the principle that only enough of a compound is added to do its job, it is not added ‘to stock up’ so that it will, as we like to say, stick! 

Nataša: Essential oils have a primary function as natural fragrances. In addition to this function, they have additional functions, e.g. aromatherapeutic properties (healing function) to antimicrobial properties (especially in combination with synthetic preservatives). Again, care must be taken with these compounds due to the sensitivity of the components of the essential oils to the concentrations used. Environmental problem? Possibly due to the temperature-intensive extraction processes (one of the extraction methods is distillation, which is one of the more energy-intensive processes).

Nataša: Limonene, linalool, citral are among the natural fragrance ingredients often used to scent cosmetic products. You know, every cream has to smell good, that is one of the characteristics of every cosmetic product. The compounds listed are among the 26 fragrance compounds that, since 2005, have to be listed in the INCI list of ingredients because they can cause an allergic reaction in a certain concentration. European legislation thus protects users who are prone to fragrance allergies. These compounds are also present in my products, as I use only essential oils for fragrance where these compounds ARE present. 

Nataša: A very broad question on dyes. Basically, dyes are organic compounds that can be soluble (soluble in water or organic solvents) and insoluble (called organic pigments). In addition to dyes, there are inorganic pigments. A huge field. As well as colouring, these compounds have various functions: sun protection, antioxidants (carotenoids), some dyes are also vitamins (Vitamin B12). As with other compounds in cosmetics, they can be of natural or synthetic origin, and there are definitely concerns about the use of dyes.

Nataša: In the area of dyes in particular, there are many concerns about the use of natural dyes, which, because they are “natural and generally better accepted”, have been less studied toxicologically than synthetic, artificial dyes. This is an area that still needs to be explored. 

What is the criterion for our choice in the shop? In my experience, first of all, always the appearance of the product. Our eyes, our brains, are buying. Only at home, when we take the oilfragrtime to look at a product, we smell it first, of course, and only then we test it on our skin. And only after that comes reading the declarations, the claims on the product. This part is not the fault of the manufacturers, it is human nature. That is why education in product content is essential, so that the customer quickly gets a sense of the quality of the product he is holding in his hand at first glance.

Nataša: No. Not even in natural cosmetics, no. The way the dye is extracted is unacceptable. Do you know that 1 kg of this dye requires 80 000 to 140 000 insects, which are either dried in the sun, suffocated in sulphur fumes or boiled with water? You’ll wish your lipstick was a different shade of red!

Nataša: Scenting cosmetic products is a necessity today. It’s what customers want. But I have a different view. I incorporate a minimal amount of fragrance (essential oils) into my products – just enough to cover any unpleasant mood of the ingredients themselves in the product, or no fragrance at all. I myself smell extremely strongly and am extremely annoyed when I see a lady standing in front of me at the post office with all sorts of cosmetic products evaporating from her: from washing powder, softener, shampoo and hair regenerator, and on top of that, her perfume. My head is swelling with a headache, all the aromatic impulses at once. That is why I am extremely modest and careful when using fragrances (also because of the possibility of allergic reactions). 

Nataša: No. However, the timing and amount of disinfectant is probably different with natural disinfectants than with synthetic disinfectants, which are usually more concentrated. Again, the concern is that natural disinfectants, precisely for the reason of “naturalness and general better acceptance”, are much less studied toxicologically. 

Nataša: There is room. There are labels, like for medicines, which you peel off and can read even a large amount of print. For the manufacturer, such a label is a major cost. And that is the only reason why this information is not there. My concern is: what can this information tell the ordinary consumer, the non-expert? I know customers who read the declarations on products and count only the E-components. Even though, for example, E300 is ascorbic acid, so vitamin C, which is a perfectly OK ingredient? Critical thinking without knowledge? That is why learning is necessary.

Nataša: The manufacturer itself comes first, with a quality system of work in development and production. Then the national inspection services, but they do not test the quality of the products, but the quality system of the work. Then the certification companies, if the products are certified. They test the suitability of the product. Product performance studies are carried out at the discretion of the manufacturer.

Nataša: Yes. There is a growing awareness of ingredients and uses. People want to know what they are using and their relationship with nature is becoming important.

Nataša: Customer attitudes towards natural cosmetics are improving. Many people choose natural cosmetics when they have problems with conventional cosmetics, when they have sensitivities, and then they go back to nature, to its gentleness and to their trust in its knowledge. Technology has also advanced, and we can now have truly wonderful natural ingredients from nature that we did not have a few decades ago.

Nataša: First, you need to know your skin very well, what it needs. Depending on your age, depending on your appearance, depending on what you want to achieve with your cosmetics. Be aware of the limitations of cosmetics: unfortunately, a cream will not correct your genetic make-up, your lifestyle habits/practices that affect the way you feel in your own skin. And from here on, keep exploring in a creative nature. 

Nataša: Natural cosmetics are more than just creams. It is a way of thinking, of respecting ourselves and everything around us. Together, let’s create a better life and a better planet.